The Pike Place chowder line is not the chowder you want. The actual best chowder in Pike Place is at one of the smaller stalls; the second-best is at a place I’m not going to name because it would ruin it. Here’s how to navigate the chowder situation honestly.
The chowder economy in Pike Place is built around three forces: the visitor who has been told there is “the chowder place”, the locals who used to like that place before it was a brand, and the small operators who quietly serve better chowder a hundred feet away. The first force keeps the line at the famous stall around the corner from the Market sign at thirty minutes most days, sometimes ninety in summer. The second force has migrated. The third force is what this post is about.
The chowder I’m recommending is at a small Latino-run seafood stall in the lower part of the Market (down the stairs from the main level, past the magic shop). Smoked salmon chowder. Made fresh every morning, runs out by 2pm most days. Six dollars in a cup, eight in a bowl, served with a corn tortilla folded into the side of the bowl. It is, with no qualifier, the best chowder in the building.
The other recommendation is a small fish-and-chips place on the north side of the Market that has been there since the late 70s. Their chowder is more traditional — potato-forward, lots of cream — but the clams are excellent and there’s never a line. Worth the trip if you want the canonical version done well, not done famously.
Sketch of the route: skip the line at the corner. Walk past it, down the stairs to the lower Market. Pay six dollars for better chowder. Eat it on the bench facing the water.
